Whisky-Scented Wanderings in the Highlands
I stepped through the door of the stone Glenfarclas warehouse, my enraptured nose filling with the gust of whisky-scented air. They call it the “angel’s share” – the portion of whisky that evaporates from its cask into the atmosphere, as if the very angels themselves were sipping from the barrels. I couldn’t help but listen for a rustling of wings in the rafters above.
Later, around the distillery’s tasting table with my traveling companions, the Glenfarclas sommelier told us that one’s mood can greatly affect the taste of the whisky. The single malt on my tongue sang hosannas, as if I had stumbled upon some mystical alchemy. I had come to the Scottish Highlands for the hill walking, but in the process, found a newfound appreciation for the magic of malted barley.
Crossing the Highland Line
Our group met in Edinburgh, exchanging brief introductions before loading into a van and heading north. We were a motley crew – a couple from Kentucky, a couple from Florida, our American trip leader Nathanael, and our cheerful Scottish guide Gordon. As we drove, the landscape began to transform, and soon we crossed the geologic fault that marks the boundary between the Scottish Lowlands and Highlands.
These two regions are as distinctly divided by history and culture as they are by the land itself. The sparsely populated Highlands are rural, rugged, and sweepingly beautiful – a moody, haunting counterpart to the Lowlands’ productive farmland and natural resources. Instead of the jagged, forested peaks of my Rocky Mountain home, the Highland mountains stood apart like sentinels, their stone foundations cushioned by a patchwork of heather, moss, and wildflowers.
Cairngorms and the Queen’s Castle
Our first destination was the Highland village of Ballater, gateway to the Cairngorms National Park – the largest national park in the British Isles. Just before reaching Ballater, we stopped to explore the grounds of Balmoral Castle, the Scottish home of the Royal Family since Prince Albert acquired it for Queen Victoria in 1852.
We peppered our guide Gordon with questions about the castle and its royal residents, but like a true Scot, he made it clear he didn’t quite understand the fuss. After wandering the woods and stumbling upon the bronze statue of Queen Victoria’s beloved border collie, Noble, tucked away in a secluded glen, I realized that the real magic of this place lay not in the pomp and circumstance, but in the quiet moments of connection with the land and its stories.
Lochs, Pines, and Chaffinches
Our first hike in the Cairngorms took us around the serene shores of Loch Muick, passing by one of Queen Victoria’s old hunting lodges and through a pocket forest of tall, straight-trunked Scots pines where cheerful chaffinches flitted about. Gordon pointed out the carnivorous sundew plants glistening by the trail and plucked up a handful of sphagnum moss, intending to squeeze out the moisture and illustrate its remarkable absorbency.
As we continued our ramble, I couldn’t help but marvel at the fact that we were traversing these hills and forests with such freedom – a right of responsible access that is fiercely protected in Scotland. Unlike the heavily regulated parklands back home, the Highlands seemed to invite exploration, beckoning us to immerse ourselves in the rugged beauty and uncover its hidden wonders.
Chasing the Mist
Over the course of our week-long journey, we hiked through misty glens, traversed windswept ridges, and discovered tucked-away lochs that mirrored the ever-changing sky. Each step led us deeper into a landscape that felt simultaneously ancient and alive, as if the very mountains and moorlands were breathing alongside us.
Time and again, we found ourselves the only souls for miles, save for the occasional herd of shaggy Highland cattle or a soaring bird of prey. It was in these moments of solitude that the Highlands truly worked their magic, soothing the soul and sparking a sense of wonder that seemed to emanate from the land itself.
Whether it was the whisky-scented air of the distilleries, the haunting beauty of the lochs and glens, or the profound sense of connection to the natural world, the Highlands had cast their spell. I left with a heart full of gratitude and a longing to return, to continue unraveling the mysteries of this enchanting corner of the world.
