Conquering the West Highland Way
I’ll never forget the day I decided to embark on a trek across the Scottish Highlands. It all started when my good friend Kat and I reminisced about our previous adventures on the Appalachian Trail. The wanderlust bug had bitten us again, and we were determined to find our next great hiking challenge.
That’s when Kat mentioned the West Highland Way – a 96-mile journey through some of the most breathtaking landscapes in all of Scotland. I was immediately intrigued. The thought of traversing those rugged, rolling hills and lochs sparked a fire within me. So without hesitation, I hit the purchase button on a plane ticket, and our Highland expedition was underway.
Kicking off the Adventure
As I stepped off the plane in Glasgow, I was greeted by Kat, who had taken the train up to meet me. After a hearty Scottish breakfast, we made our way to the charming town of Milngavie – the official starting point of the West Highland Way. Standing before the iconic iron gate, we couldn’t contain our excitement. This was it – the beginning of an unforgettable journey through the Highlands.
With our packs on our backs, Kat and I set off, eager to soak in the scenic landscapes that lay ahead. The first day’s hike was a gentle warm-up, winding through the pastoral farmlands and forests just outside of Milngavie. We even stumbled upon the Glengoyne Distillery, where we couldn’t resist a wee dram to get us going.
Conquering Conic Hill
As we approached the second day, the true challenge of the West Highland Way began to reveal itself. Before us stood the imposing Conic Hill, a rocky, 1,371-foot ascent that promised sweeping views of the renowned Loch Lomond.
The climb was no easy feat, but with our trekking poles in hand and determination in our hearts, Kat and I trudged on. Each step brought us closer to the summit, and as we crested the top, we were rewarded with a breathtaking panorama of the loch and the surrounding Highlands. It was a moment of triumph that filled us with a sense of accomplishment.
The descent, however, proved to be just as demanding. The steep, rocky terrain tested our knees, but we pressed on, eager to reach our destination of Balmaha and the cozy Oak Tree Inn.
Traversing Loch Lomond’s Shores
Day three brought us face-to-face with perhaps the most challenging section of the West Highland Way – the rugged path that hugs the banks of Loch Lomond. The relentless ups and downs, combined with the treacherous tree roots and rocky terrain, made for a mentally and physically draining experience.
As we trudged along the bonnie, bonnie banks, I couldn’t help but marvel at the sheer beauty of the loch. The sparkling waters and towering mountains in the distance were a sight to behold, yet the constant need to watch our footing made it difficult to fully immerse ourselves in the moment.
Nonetheless, we persevered, stopping to refuel at the Clansman Bar and admiring the stunning views from the Rowardennan Youth Hostel. By the time we reached our campsite for the night, we were physically and mentally drained, but the sense of accomplishment was palpable.
Escaping Loch Lomond’s Grasp
The fourth day saw us bid a bittersweet farewell to Loch Lomond, as we climbed our way out of the oak woodland and into the open landscapes that signaled our entry into the Highlands proper.
The change in scenery was truly remarkable – from the lush, tree-lined shores to the towering munros (mountains) that surrounded us. It was as if we had stepped into a wholly different world, one that was both awe-inspiring and humbling.
As we made our way towards Inverarnan, we couldn’t help but stop and admire the historic ruins of St. Fillan’s Priory and the mystical Holy Pool – a site that had once been used for rituals to “cure” those suffering from mental illness. The weight of that history hung heavy in the air, serving as a poignant reminder of the challenges that have long plagued humanity.
Traversing the Glens
With Loch Lomond finally behind us, the next few days of the trek saw us navigating the open glens and moorlands of the Highlands. The terrain was less demanding, but no less breathtaking, as we were surrounded by the majestic munros that stretched out before us.
One particularly memorable moment came as we crossed Rannoch Moor – a vast, treeless expanse that felt almost otherworldly in its beauty. As we walked, we were treated to the sight of wild red deer grazing peacefully under the watchful gaze of the munros, and even spotted a sneaky Eurasian otter slinking through the marshy waters.
The days that followed saw us traversing the dramatic landscapes of Glen Coe, where the mighty Buachaille Etive Mòr (The Great Herdsman) stood guard over our path. It was a humbling experience, walking in the shadow of such a colossal, icy-capped peak, and we couldn’t help but feel small in its presence.
The Final Push to Fort William
As we neared the end of our trek, the rugged terrain continued to challenge us, both physically and mentally. The steep ascent up Devil’s Staircase was a true test of our endurance, but the panoramic views from the summit made it all worthwhile.
And then, finally, there it was – the mighty Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest peak, looming in the distance. As we descended into the charming town of Fort William, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of pride and accomplishment. We had conquered the West Highland Way, and the adventure was far from over.
Conquering Ben Nevis
With our West Highland Way journey behind us, Kat and I set our sights on a new challenge – summiting Ben Nevis via the Carn Mor Dearg Arete route. This technical, high-altitude trek was not for the faint of heart, but with our trusty Scarpa boots, crampons, and ice axes in tow, we were determined to reach the top.
The climb was a true test of our skills and endurance, as we navigated treacherous scree, ice, and snow. But with each step, the views only grew more awe-inspiring, and the sense of accomplishment more palpable. When we finally reached the summit, standing atop the UK’s highest point, it was a moment of pure triumph.
Exploring the Great Glen Way
After our exhilarating ascent of Ben Nevis, it was time to embark on the next leg of our Highland adventure – the Great Glen Way. This 79-mile trail follows the fault line that divides the Highlands, offering a completely different experience from the West Highland Way.
Gone were the rugged, towering munros, replaced by the serene lochs and gentle countryside of the Great Glen. As we made our way along the Caledonian Canal and through the quaint villages, we were struck by the sense of timelessness and the deep connection to the land that permeated the region.
While the pace of the Great Glen Way was more leisurely, the experience was no less captivating. We found ourselves immersed in the rhythms of rural Scottish life, watching farmers herd their sheep and chatting with locals in the pubs. It was a welcome respite after the challenges of the West Highland Way, and a reminder that the Highlands offer something for everyone.
The Final Leg to Loch Ness
As our time in the Highlands drew to a close, we set our sights on one final destination – the legendary Loch Ness. The last stretch of the Great Glen Way took us through a breathtaking landscape, with the towering munros of the Grampian Mountains watching over us.
When we finally reached the high point overlooking the loch, we were treated to a sight that took our breath away. Loch Ness, with its mysterious depths and storied history, stretched out before us, a fitting end to our Highland odyssey.
As I stood there, taking in the view, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of gratitude. Not just for the stunning landscapes we had traversed, but for the journey itself – the challenges we had faced, the memories we had made, and the personal growth we had experienced along the way. It was a reminder that the true magic of the Highlands lies not just in its physical beauty, but in the transformative power of the human experience.
And so, with a heavy heart but a renewed spirit, Kat and I bid farewell to the Highlands, knowing that we would one day return to this enchanting corner of the world. For now, though, the lure of the Loch Ness Shores campsite beckoned, promising a well-deserved rest after our epic trek across the rugged Scottish landscapes.
